The Diary - May 2007
- Champagne Grand Cru Brut Reserve NV (G. Charlemagne)
Quite intense and vinous. Meaty. Good, but I was expecting something more elegant - it's had some time in oak perhaps? May benefit from time in bottle. Top
- Champagne Prestige Brut NV (Diebolt-Vallois)
Creamy, fine. No huge intensity but very pretty indeed. Top
- Champagne Grand Cru Brut NV (Bonnaire)
Creamy rich and soft. Much of the attraction of the D-V wine and a bit of the body of the Charlemagne. Very nice. Top
- Champagne Vielle Vignes de Cramant 2003 (Larmandier-Bernier)
Luscious soft mousse - the whole package very balanced and oozing class. Dry and delicious. Bare even
- Champagne Special Club 1985 (Bonnaire)
Rather oxidised. Perhaps an odd bottle.
- Champagne Special Club 1985 (Larmandier-Bernier)
Green pea, attractively vegetal old chardonnay. Rather lovely. Bare
- Champagne Cuis 1979 (Diebolt Vallois)
Mushrooms - a bit edgy, and tending towards oxidation in a not altogether agreeable way.
- Champagne 1979 (Mumm)
Honied nose. Dry, flavoursome, delicious. Lovely.
- Chassagne Montrachet rouge Vieilles Vignes 2005 (B. Moreau)
Quite big, rich, excellent. No huge subtlety - typical good Chassagne red. Easy
- Chassagne Montrachet rouge Vieilles Vignes 2004 (B. Moreau)
Higher-toned - lots of finesse if a little less suave and easy than the 205. Bare
- Leoville Barton 1985
Classic Claret! Now drinking beautifully. Top
- Langoa Barton 1985
Similar style, but side by side, less complexity. Top
- Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru Ruchottes 1992 (Ramonet)
Touch of ginger, quite high-toned. Excellent. Needs time perhaps.
- Fonseca 1960
Fresh, complex, high-toned. Very good. Bare
- Pol Roger blanc de blancs 1998
Citric, autolytic - that from a very slightly corked bottle. A replacement had a great richness of ginger-edged fruit too. The good bottle will benefit from some time and could even merit 5 stars eventually. Top
- Dom Perignon 1999 (Moet et Chandon)
Elegant, complex, slightly gamy - wet farmhouse straw. Restrained and rather fine. Bare
- La Grande Dame 1996 (Veuve Cliquot)
Quite meaty, in your face sort of fizz. It's a bit short on finesse for my taste, but I suppose it will turn out pretty interesting in 10 years. (with reservations)
- Pol Roger Winston Churchill 1996
Lovely: all the complexity of the Pol Roger above but with fascinating depths that I kept returning to. Absolutely lovely balance. and rising
- Krug Grande Cuvee NV
Vanilla, very refined, gorgeous soft bubbles (it always has such a fantastic mousse). On top form. Bare
- Champagne Cuvee Longueville NV (Gardet)
Decent middle of the road Champers. Top
- Redoma Rose 2001 (Niepoort)
Gamy, like sort of red Burgundy - interesting wine. Top
- Segla 2001
Rausan Segla's second wine. Scented, bright fruit - very Margaux and very drinkable. Bare
- Savennieres Clos St Yves 2000 (Baumard)
Attractive wine, honey and apples once it has been open a while and warmed up. A more easy-going style than the appellation stereotype. Top
- Lafon Rochet 1993
It seems to be time to drink the good 93's, and I think there are more such than I once thought. Cedary fruit, slightly green but attractively succulent tannins, rather nice mature Claret. A rather good
- Barolo 1989 (E. Cogno)
Left standing up inside for half a day and decanted for an hour or so this still improved with a little more air. Old-fashioned stuff, still rather tannic, needing food, but with that elusive rose-like fragrance and purity of fruit. Pleasant drinking if you like this sort of thing - I do.
I forgot to enter these for a while!
Bought as part of a recent auction lot with some bottles I did really want!
- Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Marina Cvetic 2000 (Masciarelli)
Herby, honied, reminiscent of the Southern Rhone with its fairly flat profile. Stylish wine, if not hugely complex. Rather nice though - valued at a couple of quid when I decided what to bid, but I'd happily pay 10-15 for this. Bare
- Angimbe Insolai Chardonnay 2003 (Cusumano)
This a complete unknown I valued at zero - which may have been a bit high. From Sicily, this wine has an odd, unattractive bitterness that I don't care for and no real compensating features. Bare
- Soave Colli Scaligieri Vigne della Bra 2005 (Filippi)
Lovely honeysuckle fruit with a touch of bitter almonds once it opens up. Real concentration and presence: absolutely lovely and a touch more of everything than the other Filippi Soave I noted. I suppose one has to say that this one scrapes given that the other got a top 3 stars!