On the plus side, this might well age into something much more harmonious and if it does, the wine will be brilliant. Richard believes it will and I don't want to disagree. On the negative side, the wine gives me an impression of being a little overwrought - the winemaking is perhaps showing through the wine a bit, at least at this stage in its life. Wondering whether Juhlin had tried this wine I found instead a note of his on a different Vilmart wine which he describes as having "fishy, gamy, unruly aromas" which at 10 years old had become "harmonious" and "exotic" - which would seem to support my brother's view. I still have some doubts about the style though - I must open one of my Cellier d'Or 90's soon for further illumination although I seem to recall suggestions that the style at Vilmart has evolved in the last decade or so.